Hello everyone and welcome to this new airsoft gun video review. Today, I have the honor to present you the Lee Enfield No4 MK1 from Viva Arms. First of all, I would like to thank SWIT Airsoft, Destockage Games and my friend Echo from 419lab for their support, and without whom this video wouldn’t have been possible.
We will begin by making a small summary of the history of the original weapon: It’s the direct evolution of the Lee Enfield No1 MK3, the barrel has been slightly lengthened, the bottom of the magazine is no longer rounded to facilitate machining.
It has a different purpose, making it easier to use. The rear sight has two eyecups: one fixed at 300 yards, or 274m. And another can be adjustable in height, ranging from 200 to 1300 yards, or between 183 to 1189m, graduated in intervals of 100 yards, or 91m.
There are several types of sights elsewhere. The replica from Viva Arms has a mark 1 sight, which is fully adjustable as an original. You will undoubtedly notice a certain similarity between this replica and the one proposed by Redwolf Airsoft.
Indeed, they are exactly the same ones. The exclusive contract signed by RWA ended a while ago, and VIVA Arms was able to sell its equipment under its own brand, and no longer subcontract with RWA. So don’t get me wrong, RWA was only repacking the replicas by raising prices from $100 to $150, but there was no innovation compared to the version developed by Viva.
You have already seen the unboxing of this replica, if it’s not the case, the link is in the description, it will allow you to see the contents of the pack. You could see that there was a label stuck on the wood.
Not very aesthetic. Regulatory, I don’t doubt, but I admit having a lot of trouble removing it, it leaves a lot of traces of glue. I had to finish it with acetone. But it’s mandatory for customs, among others.
.. We will start with the critical point of this replica, which will make everyone agree: the price. We are at $450 or $500 without the shipping costs or customs fees. Ouch… The salt rate is critical in this price.
.. Especially for the object. Well I don’t spoil you too much, but for that, it’s expensive! Hey, people who ask me rather recurrently: “how much I will have to pay for customs,” look on Google. If I had to answer all the questions like that, I wouldn’t do any more videos, I would become an accountant.
The replica weighs 3.1kg when the original weighs 4.1kg, an exact difference of 1kg. It’s not very surprising, since we have zamak here, with a little aluminum and some wood, which is not bad, but it’s not DBoy-style rack wood, but it’s not original wood either.
I think a real can be adapted, it will ask for work, and budget, because a real expensive. Some parts are made of steel, there are very few but there are some, and others are zamak, and the external barrel is ultra light aluminum.
.. I even thought of plastic. Too bad they could have gained a few grams by putting a zamak cannon for example… But then I think it’s aluminum. At the level of the woods, we have 4 parts. A first part here, a second part there.
The third part is below the front, and the last is the stock. To remove the rear stock, remove the butt plate and access using a long key, a large and long key, to access a screw here. Note that this stick, with wear, will tend to have play at this place, at the level of rotation.
No screw that falls apart? The buttplate is black in origin. Too bad, in fact it’s bronze or aluminum, since it was either brass or zamak. Yes, it already existed at the time. It doesn’t have a hatch to put the oiler, this is the only complaint I can make him.
It’s a shame, but it seems to me that this is not a fault of realism. While it’s stupid, there is the hole in it to access the screw. Adapting an original butt plate may be an option. I found one in poor condition but I didn’t adapt because it was really worth it to damage the wood for that, it was really too bad, I will show you not even so much is shameful.
The upper handguard at the back has no streaks, it’s a shame, it’s still pretty characteristic. But it’s not a mistake, strictly speaking, I saw several fabrications of this rifle and all didn’t have the handguard with streaks.
The more handymen can add them. I don’t have the equipment. A safety is present opposite of the cocking lever, in the form of flag: once in front, you can pull, once rear, the trigger will be blocked.
Naughty carrot molding… This won’t prevent you from opening and manipulating your bolt and chamber a BB’s. The bolt can be handled normally, it only blocks the trigger. The replica will have markings only on the sight.
It’s a shame, but it’s possible to add. So I added the side marking: No4 mk1. For the little “o”, I don’t have the letter to hit adequate, so I took an 8 and hit only the bottom part. I tried to cold blue it again, it didn’t work.
So I should repaint, but it would be seen too. So I added markings on the collar, and be careful when you hit the carcass, it can knock down the pins that we have on each side of the bolt. Put some tape on it to prevent them from being blocked and you lose them.
And then take a scotch to reward you! The bolt will have a black cocking lever, but the rest will be silver, and we don’t have an extractor… It’s a big black spot on realism… No extractor as on the Mauser 98K and Springfield from S&T, it’s really a shame.
It’s actually a simple tube and the spring is in it, nothing more. It’s stupid because the tube doesn’t rotate, they could at least simulate the extractor. And for the silver hue, I tried many methods, but no success.
It even looks like it’s plastic. It’s not, but it reacts as if. Painting is not a good solution so far, it will be full of friction, it’s a blow to foul your mechanism with the paint particles that will go forward.
So I don’t have a solution, I’ll have to leave like that. Or replace the tube, outright, if you are handyman. I was talking about the sight: if you want to use the eyelet for instinctive shooting, you have to fold it down completely, and you can do it completely only if your sight is set to a minimum of 600 yards.
Why? Because before, the cursor comes to tap on the fixing screw. It’s a shame, I doubt that it’s realistic. Maybe reduce this screw? But afterwards to dismount it’s galley. Or put an Allen screw instead? But the fragility may be a little more important.
By the way, my eyelet took a shot in the transport. Not glop. I picked up the painting from the sight, since we can see on original models that the tan doesn’t hold at this place. Why? I don’t know! At the level of the look, obviously, I couldn’t resist to work on it almost entirely.
You know me. Since originally, he had that look. First of all the wood: I pickled it, re-stained it, I treated it with fondur, then with linseed oil. And that’s all. For tanning, there are only parts that I have stripped to cold blue, namely these parts.
The rest is rough formwork. The basic painting is still pretty original, that there is nothing to say. By cons, I had to readjust at the necklace that we have here: before, we had a nasty gap between the wood and the necklace that we have here.
It’s a very ugly gap. So I had to attack at this level to be able to readjust the wood properly. Since then, I have a misfeed that happens regularly: The magazine is no longer perfectly aligned with the charging well, so sometimes it will shoot empty.
So I have to move the magazine slightly with a finger, the hand, until I hear a little “zzz”, it’s BB’s that go back into the feedwell. Obviously, I had to cold blue where I made my markings, but it seems that the originals were tanned and some were painted over.
That’s why I only scratched part of it. After, it’s to confirm, it can be a post-war treatment to repaint them. I admit that I am not 100% sure of what I am saying. The originals were tanned? So, are you going to take a lawsuit by SOS Racisme? Or by the bofs who love “les bronzés”.
And you will have to add an accessory: a sling in canvas, the original pass without problem. The only thing you need to know is that down there, you need 4 fingers between the loop and the passer-by. 4 fingers.
That’s what I put in your sister. I found mine for 35€. After, the advantage of this rifle is that it can be British or Canadian, so it’s up to you to add the mark of the manufacturer on the safety lever.
Personally, I wanted to do it British. From Birmingham. To make it to me at the Peaky Blinders… NO4 HAD NOT EXISTED AT THIS TIME Not serious. Well, we talked about the outside, we will now talk about the purely airsoft part.
I mentioned a bit, it’s a spring, so you have to rearm manually before each shot. You are arming the bolt as you shoot. Click, that’s it, I’m cocked. The cocking lever is free, so I can close the bolt with the cocking lever down.
It’s not realistic. There is still a ball and a spring that prevents it from moving in all directions, but it’s not enough. So big mistake of realism, and it can even be dangerous. Another trick not realistic: the end bolt will be completely fixed, it won’t move like an original when shooting.
It’s a shame. The bolt, when you arm it, will make a horror movie sound… A door that squeaks… And again, that’s because I put fat in the mechanism, out of box, it was like this: In any case, it’s really not an encouraging noise.
.. Why such a noise? Because we have two springs that will be put in tension in fact:one in the bolt, with piston, normal, and the 2nd will leave from here to go to the room: this is the system that allows the BB’s to go up from the magazine to the hop-up hop block.
Which saves us from having 15 BB’s here that would be blocked. So we have an elevator system thanks to this spring. The disadvantage is that this spring is absolutely not guided. So at one time or another, you will have this spring which, potentially, can stand in BB’s.
At the moment of the curve, the trench becomes tunnel, and the spring can knock on the top of the tunnel and twist definitively. It may not be easy to understand like that: it’s the spring with the trench, so a few inches, we’ll be on a trench, then we go on a corridor.
If the spring is no longer exactly in the axis, it will hit the top of the tunnel, and if you force, the spring will twist. And once it’s twisted, twisting it the other way… good luck. And it happened to me twice to have this problem, whereas I have only for 3 weeks.
And this problem, you the other, because at some point, it may block. So there for example, if it blocks and you go like a nag, it’s not the right solution. If you have a problem at this level, it will have to move the bolt back and go by little moves, until the spring passes.
And at that moment, it will be able to close as it should be. This is the big weakness of this rifle, which is why SWIT Airsoft returned the 7 copies they received. Obviously, the builder Viva Arms is aware of this problem.
They said no later than yesterday, saying “we send you a spare spring”, that, it can always be used, I managed to tweak mine as it should. A new system is already developed, and will be available on the next models.
Afterwards, this spring, as a spring in itself, is not indispensable. You put a big hose that is the right thickness, 6mm, which is the right length, and you fix it to the rod that will communicate the movement, the work will be done in the same way.
But if I believe the builder, hello Dustin, at that time, we should have the next versions that won’t have this problem. So maybe replace it with something flexible but strong… like a scoubidou? Samy, the villain he wants to imprison me in a dark hallway! To twist the spring, I had to heat it a little to go straight to the clip.
Because it’s very strong this spring. It’s easily wrong but it’s strong. Like you, you’re tough, but you’re damn twisted. I had the temptation to lubricate the spring so that it slides more easily in its hallway.
Serious mistake, don’t do that. It actually helps to rearm more easily, but there are the BB’s that go through there. So I rotted my replica with oil everywhere. It took 2 or 3 disassemblies to completely clean it.
And even now, I’m going to have some BB’s coming out of the black color. I wanted to do as in the Gladiator films, I saw a curve, I wanted to oil it. Put some oil on it .. Hum it’s hot. So the BB’s ..
uh girls… ready for impact? So the BB’s fell after 5m, I’m going to have 2 or 3 that will go up the corridor, and some will even fall in the location of the bolt so be careful when closing, it can hurt.
Same result if you just want to coat your piston. Yes, I’m disgusting, I coat my piston. If you want to lubricate your piston, you will have to use solid grease. If you use oil, the gravity doing its job, it will fall in the supply corridor.
The replica works with 30-BB’s magazines. Finally, 26+4. Indeed, 4 BB’s will remain stuck in the magazine once you have shot all your BB’s. After these BB’s, you will be able to shoot them: at the moment when your bolt is armed, you will have to rotate your rifle more than 90°, you bring back a little the bolt, and you will be able to arm normally then.
Each magazine can be for 30€. They have a metal body, and the top and the inside will be plastic. To see, the wear on the lips, maybe it will be a point that will become a weakness. Well after that I shot between 200 and 300 BB’s with this rifle and I don’t see any sign of fatigue of the lips, just small traces.
So if at some point, it peeps, I will make a video nothing for that. A video on broken lips. You’re sure? You’re going to get striked… For it to work well, you have to engage the magazine first in front, you push in; and press back here until you see the lever return to its original position.
It may take a little typing on the back, especially if it’s bad-fitting like mine. And as long as you don’t have the magazine eject button that will have returned to its original place, you will likely lose your magazine.
Regularly I have jams. Thus, possession of a cleaning rod is not an option. It’s stupid because it’s not included in the pack. Do you want to see my…cleaning rod? I’ve already screwed up a shooting session like this.
My first shooting session on video was cut short because I had a BB’s stuck in the barrel. And even unlocking the hop-up to the max, it was well blocked. The nozzle is visible when you open the bolt, so you can access the BB’s if it goes to the wrong side, and eventually come to finger your hop-up.
The part under the bolt is a zamak rail. To see if it’s fragile with time, normally there is little tension on it, not like the bolt of the DBoy which will be in zamak and fragile. At the level of the design, I think it’s the most fragile piece of this replica.
.. except the shitty spring obviously. All the screws of this replica must be reviewed with the threadlocker. Otherwise you will have problems. Especially the nozzle… it will tend to unscrew itself. It happened to me after 150 BB’s, and so I could not cock, as the nozzle had advanced slightly, the mechanism too.
If your bolt is open as here, be careful, don’t rely on the trigger, there is no safety. There, if I press the trigger, the bolt will close at once, and a BB’s will go away. So the faulty spring of the supply corridor will be able to take a big blow in the mouth if you are not lucky and it’s not aligned.
While in the hand, if it blocks a little, we can catch up! And it can really hurt the mechanism… Honestly, never leave the bolt open if you let your finger wander around the trigger. The replica has a hop-up, but it’s hard to access.
So to access it, you have to disassemble the handguard at the front by removing the band… At the beginning of the game, when you want to adjust your hop-up according to the weight of BB’s, depending on the wind that will be, it will be HARD.
Especially that you risk losing the screw here with his little bolt. What I can advise you is not to hand over your upper handguard until you are in the game with the hop-up set. We will now go to the test chrony 0.
20g out of box, then the test shot at 15m, 35m and 40m, then a range test. Wind 30km/h from the left Ah it’s close! Shitty wind anyway… Ah it’s close! And we will now do a range test. (Patrick Bruel’s cameo) Max reach: 45m.
Accurate up to 40m. Don’t use heavier logs than 0.30g, otherwise you will have jams because the hop-up will be too tight. I had a pedophile joke but I’m going to restrain myself. We can see that despite the wind, the results are not disgusting.
A small precision cannon wouldn’t hurt him! Yes, but your banker, it’s going to hurt him! And the last accessory you can add will be the bayonet, here it’s a bayonet repro for No4 MK1, which passes forcing a little, I had to type to remove the paint of aluminum.
But once the bayonet is adjusted, we can see that it doesn’t move. Well, it’s a real bayonet, even if it’s a reproduction, it’s still real steel, and it won’t break if you put it in a man. It’s so well reproduced that we have a mark on it, with the release button with the button that must be pressed to be able to remove it.
The other alternative, and here I thank my friend Echo from 419LAB, you can find this type of bayonet link in the description. It’s therefore a bayonet in 3D printing with a flexible blade. So perfect for GN, roleplay, airsoft.
.. and that works exactly like the real one: we put it in the right notch, we press and we rotate. With the unlock button to unlock the bayonet then. The only drawback is that we don’t have a stop, so I have to look at how the real thing is done to send Echo the modification to do.
But that won’t stop you from using your replica and using it for airsoft. Here is what concludes this video review of airsoft gun, I hope that it will have pleased you! If so, don’t hesitate to put a thumbs up, a comment, to subscribe and share this video.
I would like to thank SWIT Airsoft for the discount granted for this rifle, Destockage Games for the consumables that were provided for this review, and 419lab for the bayonet gift. And if you also want to support me, I invite you to discover my pages Tipeee and MyTips, it will allow you to give me a boost at the same time on the form but also on the content of my videos.
As for me, I’ll see you soon for a new video of presentation of airsoft gun, Denix replica, uniform and VIP presentation! Bye! Directed by Neo035 With the support of SWIT Airsoft, Destockage Games and 419lab Thanks to my tipeurs.
.. Thanks to Viva Arms and Pierre for their help